Yemen and Passage to Yemen Log

This short 20 day passage with only two people has been more of an exercise in time killing rather than
excitement.  Now I say that in a glad sort of way instead of wishing for excitement.

So if you want to have fun take a woman you met on a crew posting website, have her fly half way around
the world, jump on a boat, spend 3 days or so provisioning, then sail off together for 20 days at sea!  We
both had some personality issues to deal with to get along, but we have done pretty good.  As always
you have issues when you are the most sleep deprived, but luckily only one day of the passage was fairly
rough.  I am going to start my own reality TV show called strangers on a passage.  Heck the average
person out here is a bit strange so put them together and wow what a show!  Now she jumped ship 3
days after arrival so I guess the show was cancelled?

We got to see dolphins, tons of flying fish committed suicide on the decks, had one lovely yellow fin tuna,
saw lots of ships, luckily no pirates, more ships, great sunsets, a few rainbows, one developing water
spout, crossed the equator again, sailed along with both the big dipper and southern cross visible, went
to windward, sailed downwind, used almost every sail, etc.  So all in all the typical passage except for the
equator crossing. It is strange to be back north of the line after almost 3 years down under.  I need to
reverse my thinking again.  Heck the toilet water spins the wrong way even let alone the lows and highs!

For some reason the world seems to hate the US and especially the US Military.  Now I don't imagine
there is a single sailboat in these waters that is not completely grateful for the US Navy!  I say thanks to
the Navy for patrolling the Yemen waters for pirates!  Due to them there has been no pirate attacks in
over a year along this coast on yachts (see www.noonsite.com).  Go Navy!  It is a comforting feeling
hearing them on the VHF knowing they are just a call away if needed.

This was a slower than normal trip with light winds and more motoring than I cared for, but we made it!  A
mere 2600 miles or so in 20 days.  This is my fourth longest passage (second one on this boat), one day
shorter than our trip from Mazatlan to the Marqueses and this one was the first passage over 2000 miles
done with only one other person.  We have always been lucky in the past to have 3 for the long trips.

Oh well the beer is chilling and the port officials are waiting...

Wow this is one strange country that defies description.  Try extreme poverty and a huge western style
shopping mall in the same town?  Or maybe a mall that sells all western style woman's clothing then they
put on black robes to hide it.  Or possibly a small smelly town with goats roaming the streets?  Mostly
everyone is friendly and most want a handout or something in return (at least near the docks).  They are
really nice and many say hello so at least being an american here is not a bad thing.

Many of the kids know a bit of english and use it all on you when you meet.  The normal greeting seems
to be hello how are you or what is your name followed by money money.  The money thing gets real old
especially when they grab onto your arm and won't let go!  The sad part is that some are actually poor,
but many are well dressed kids who are obviously not hungry so why are they begging?  Today on our
hike to the old water tanks we passed a school as the kids were getting out.  Talk about hell.  Just about
every kid asked us for money and would not let go.  We were very happy to make the entrance of the
park and have the guard swat them away (literally with a stick).  None of these kids were poor, because
you need to pay to go to school here (no free education system here).  So apparently all they learn in
school is how to beg?

The people here are very nice and the country pretty much defies any description I can possibly make.  
My position report on winlink for this anchorage has the comment "toto we are not in kansas anymore"
and that pretty much sums it up.  I really think it is beyond my ability to describe this to someone that has
not been here.  There is tons of poverty and with the education system that will never change.  The
average male (some women too) chews something called Gat (spelling?) that is a mild narcotic.  This
apparently is addictive and expensive.  I have heard of folks spending half their income on this nasty
tasting stuff (tried it once and spit for blocks after that).  By late afternoon the guys are pretty mellow and
sitting around doing nothing but chewing.  The look like chipmunks with bulging cheeks of this junk.  At
least they go around spitting out this foul red stuff pretty much everywhere so between the raven poop
and the gat spit the sidewalks are interesting...  Possibly a new form of artwork?  Nothing like a taxi driver
chewing this stuff driving down the wrong side of the road honking his horn to warn cars to get out of the
way to put life in perspective.  Folks think cruising can be dangerous, but I think driving to work is more
dangerous!  I can't even begin to get into the whole religion thing here and the control of the people
through it.  Even internet access is restricted to approved sites.  Not to mention how women are treated...
 Elke could not leave my boat here without my permission!  I can't imagine what some really strict islam
country such as saudi arabia must be like nor do I really want to find out.

Now don't get me wrong this is a nice country with tons of potential.  I just fear it will never be realized.

I think I have been here too long and that is unfortunately true.  Elke jumped ship soon after we arrived.  I
had a person (Elinia) with a ticket in hand to arrive a few days later and she bailed at the last minute for
some reason.  I then waited two more weeks for someone to arrive.  She turned out to be a wonderful
person who lasted all of three days.  She got the tragic news of her sister having a serious car accident
and had to fly back.  Unfortunately it was pretty serious and she is having to stay and help with her
recovery.  That pretty much left me back at square one or crewless.  Luckily my friend in california knew
someone who was looking to get out here and he is in the air right now.  So the journey continues, but
the whole finding crew thing gets a bit tiring (did the same thing in the seychelles unfortunately).  
Someday I will hopefully find someone that enjoys this life and wants to stick around for a bit.  At least
finding crew in the Med should be easier than yemen.

Next update probably won't be until egypt in a couple of months.