| I had intended to compose this about 3 am during my first overnight passage. However, I found the night passage far too hectic to actually do, well, anything. The night started out quite lovely, 17 knots of wind, reasonable seas, and a truly lovely sunset. Once night fell - thud- I discovered that I was rather afraid. The wind and seas that seemed so benign during daylight now seemed threatening. My stomach was all in knots and I couldn't sit still. Yup, I was definitely afraid. It probably didn't help that the previous night had been a restless one. The anchorage was lovely, Stillwater Cove right in front of Pebble Beach. All the seals and otters in the world couldn't make me forget about the rocks nearby. Sleep eluded me. Unfortunately my anxiousness affected Richard as well, he chased sleep around all night, pooh, she's fast. So, starting an overnight passage sleep deprived, not all that smart. Neither of us could sleep the whole night. The seas were fine, it was just bloody cold and the noises of the moving boat were unnerving. The waves would slap under the cabin, at times it felt like we were being dropped. The rigging whined, the salon creaked - all in all it was a tad difficult. Eventually I got used to most of it. The noises seemed less threatening, the wind and the waves kind of soothing. Once I acclimated, I could appreciate the experience more. The stars were immense. They were so thick, it was as if someone had poured glitter onto velvet. The shooting stars were a regular occurrence. I suddenly realized that the little divers occur all the time, there is just too much ambient light to see them. At one point I was greatly alarmed, large white and green streaks appeared all around the boat in the water. Suddenly I heard the woosh of a breathe being taken. It was a pod of dolphins. Their playing stirred up the green sparkly phosphorescence in the water. Torpedoes of dolphins with great, glowing green contrails encircled the boat. Not bad. I also discovered that the moon sets. It glowed a burnished red as it sunk below the horizon. Again, not bad. All in all it was a long, sleepless, cold night that I wouldn't trade for the world. Later that day, after several naps, we were a tad perkier. In the distance we could see the water boiling. Curious, we wandered over to check it out. Suddenly we were surrounded by hundreds of diving, jumping and cavorting dolphins. I have never seen such a huge number. Smaller groups of four or five would leap out of the water in an choreographed ballet. At any one time there would be 10 or so of these groups all leaping in different directions. Simply amazing. We passed the Cape Horn of California (Point Conception) around 5pm. The seas were fairly unpleasant but not dangerous. As the sun set we ghosted into Cojo anchorage. The anchorage was idyllic. It was by far the most serene and protected, yet wild, spot we have been to. So, all in all, pretty nice. I am writing this as we sail a spinnaker in 20 knots true of wind under sunny skies on our way to Santa Barbara. |